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The first fragrance of the house was Tabu, created by Jean Carles 1932.
Jean Carles was well known for his wonderful creations made of unusual materials.
Before creating Tabu, he was instructed to make a fragrance for a whore (‘un parfum de puta’). Its luscious oriental floral composition starts with fresh citrus and spicy notes.
I am so so glad I finally got to try this one and own it.
If they're going to or have already changed the formulation, I will need to get a backup bottle. I had an ah-ha moment when I tried vintage Tabu for the first time.
Suddenly Youth Dew, Opium and Coco made perfect sense---they were descendants of Tabu.
Perfumer Jean Carles approach seems based on the premise that if the oriental genre is built from forceful materials and ferocious tones, why disguise it with tassels and trim? Tabu backs up its vaguely threatening name with a strapping, seductive fragrance. The combination of aggressive, spiced florals and powdered leather is just one example of the hard/soft conflict seeded throughout Tabu.
(Spoiler alert: the hard edge always wins.) Tabu investigates olfactory extremes without dicking around with the comfortable center.